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27 visible archived posts · 27 preserved total · topic ID 1017
Original topic ↗Recovered images
BFW 14 Dec 2005
#1
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
asiancuffs 15 Dec 2005
#2

Wonder if you have experience that when you or your colleaques want to remove a pair of handcuffs from an arrestee and you found that the handcuffs cannot be opened? If this happened, how did you finally get the cuffs off? Any experience that the handcuffs were picked by the arestee?
Thank you for sharing.
The Amazing Michael 15 Dec 2005
#3
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Howard, here in Michigan, we have a general rule of thumb concerning handcuffs that get jammed while on a suspect: We break out the hacksaw. Yep, we usually cut them off right above the wrist so as not to damage or scratch the cuffs. If the suspect is lucky, only one will jam-up, but Murphy's law is always in effect and it seems like it is always the hand that they write with.....go figure! Yes, we have a few of criminals named "Lefty" and at least one named "Stubs" in my neck of the woods. That will teach them not to steal! Some times, the punishment does fit the crime! LOL!


Cheers, Mike
BFW 15 Dec 2005
#4
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Yes, that does happen.

Proper handcuffs (Smith & Wesson, Peerless) "jam" up only because the keyway gets gummed up somehow. You have the same problem with a sidearm. The worst offender is a leather holster. If you don't keep the inside well oiled, the untreated "fur" from the leather will rub off and work up into the internal mechanisms of everything.

In order to apply handcuffs with "double bow out, keyway up" you have to keep them in your duty belt holster with the keyway facing out. Hence, every time you pull them out or put them into the holster, you rub them against the face of the holster, thereby working leather fur into the keyway (and double locking slot on S&W). That's why "modern" handcuff holsters have a hard, plastic liner.

For maintenance, you soak your handcuffs (and your sidearm) in kerosene, and then blow it out with an air hose. NEVER use WD40 (that's a whole story in itself).

Okay, now to what I think is the real heart of your question. You've arrested the guy, have him down at the county jail, and are ready to turn him over. Your handcuff key won't work because of stuff up inside. Here's what you do:

Blast the dickens out of them with a CO2 fire extinguisher, freeze up all that garbage, then give them a couple of good whacks with a nightstick or any other handy non-metal object to break the stuff loose. Jiggle the key around a bit and they'll open up.

Yeah, this may sound strange, but it works. As for "police brutality" or whatever, from a liability standpoint, I've never known of anyone getting sued for taking restraints OFF of a prisoner.

Once the guy is in jail, with lots of time on his hands (no pun intended), surrounded by other folks with lots of time on their hands as well, you increase the probability of jammed handcuffs. Despite how vivid your imagination is, you cannot envision what all gets crammed into that little keyway.

So, in a worst case scenario, when you can't get the things unlocked because of a prisoner's intentional messing around, you take a pair of bolt cutters, clip the connecting links, and then slap another set of handcuffs on the guy and put him in an isolation cell. When he makes bail, you take off the second set, leaving the "original Smith & Wesson bracelets" on him, walk him out the front door and tell him if he gripes about it, you'll file additional charges against him for damaging government property.


Monica 15 Dec 2005
#5
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
..."So, in a worst case scenario, when you can't get the things unlocked because of a prisoner's intentional messing around, you take a pair of bolt cutters, clip the connecting links, and then slap another set of handcuffs on the guy and put him in an isolation cell. When he makes bail, you take off the second set, leaving the "original Smith & Wesson bracelets" on him, walk him out the front door and tell him if he gripes about it, you'll file additional charges against him for damaging government property."

That's hilarious! Thanks for the stories.

BTW, can you explain why not to use WD-40?
Jason 15 Dec 2005
#6
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
BFW,

Back about 20 years ago, I had been working for an exclusive security firm that required us to carry arms, cuffs, etc. On this particular occasion, we had a subject handcuffed to a hospital bed, awaiting medical examination. The cuffs used were a pair of S&W model 90 series (polished nickel) that belonged to a fellow officer. These cuffs were given to him as a present, and had his nickname engraved in fancy script by a jeweler. After waiting a long time with the subject, the officer realized that he had forgotten to call his girlfriend, so he went down the hall to the payphone. He later confided in me that he had gotten into a quarrel with her, and had been arguing for several minutes. Everything seemed fine upon his return – the subject still staring vacantly at the wall. A doctor eventually showed up to evaluate the subject. When the doctor was through writing up his evaluation, two hospital orderlies were summoned. The orderlies requested that the officer remove the handcuffs so they could place the subject in a straitjacket for transport to a different facility. He explained that while the cuff attached to the bed rail was unlocked easily, the one attached to the subject’s wrist was jammed. At this point, the officer panicked and applied excessive torque on the key, causing the bit to break off in the jammed cuff. The orderlies searched the suspect, and found a broken paperclip concealed in his bed. They eventually had to call maintenance to deliver a pair of bolt cutters to snip the jaw of the jammed cuff. When our supervisor – who had a great sense of humor – learned of this incident, he locked the working shackle to a file cabinet handle in our office as a memento and a lesson in handcuffing precautions.

Jason

BFW 16 Dec 2005
#7
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Monica: about WD40

The stepfather of a guy I worked with was one of the original distributors for WD40 back in the 1950's and 60's.

Okay, the "WD" stands for "water displacement." The guys who came up with the stuff were looking for a product that would get moisture out/off/away from metal so that it could then be lubricated. Hey, oil and water don't mix, and water will always win over oil (as anyone who ever got water in the crankcase of their automobile will vouch for).

The "40" simply stands for the 40th formula the inventors came up with, the one that finally worked best.

Originally, WD40 was sold to fisherman as a product that would get water (particularly salt water) out of fishing reels so that they could then be lubicated with regular oil. My friend's stepfather made a very nice income off the stuff (he was a professional sports fisherman).

WD40 has rather poor, and very temporary, lubricating qualities. Unlike regular lubricating oils, it dries up really fast. It's a superb penetrating oil, working down into crevices and the like to free up stuck parts. But unless you spray the metal item on almost a daily basis with the stuff, you'll wind up with rust because the product does such a great job of removing all foreign material (water and oil) from the metal.

So, after using WD40 (which is a great product), you let the item dry out and then apply regular oil for long term lubrication. For non-stainless steel handcuffs, if all you use is WD40 they'll eventually start rusting on the inside.

If you use WD40 on a firearm such that it comes in contact with the cartridges, it will work its way around the seated bullet and contaminate the gunpowder. I knew one guy who jammed three slugs in the barrel of a .45 automatic; the stuff had weakened the gunpowder so much that they wouldn't even get out of the pistol.

Jason: stupid prisoners and the stuff they do.

The most ridiculous thing I ever saw stuck in handcuffs was a set of lower dentures. Some old geezer was apparently attempting to pick his cuffs using the silver wire thing on his false teeth, and the things got stuck in the double locking slot of a set of S&W 100's. It seems the guy had really bad arthritis, the cop felt sorry for the old man, and so handcuffed him (required by department policy during transport) with his hands in front.
Jason 16 Dec 2005
#8
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Dentures stuck in the lock-work. That’s hilarious!

Our friend that lost the engraved cuffs was very lucky that we at least remembered to double lock both handcuffs. Our company had a strict policy about leaving handcuffed persons unattended, and I doubt if our supervisor would have been in a jovial mood if the patient had succeeded in escaping.

Jason

Dorson 16 Dec 2005
#9
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
BFW is quite correct in what he has said about WD-40. For what it is worth departemnt. Handcuffs that see alot of use do need cleaning and light oiling. There are many ways to clean handcuffs from running them in the dishwasher to boiling them. I am sure there are a number of people who can make recommendations here. My susggestion is to use synthetic NON detergent oil to lubricate them. In my work I work on precision mechanisms and in school we were taught to use only synthetic oil in stead of petroleum or whale oil. The reason being is that petroleum or whale oil attracts dust and dirt which causes the stuff to gum up. Another reason is that those oils will dry out and gum things up too. Synthetic does not attract dirt and does not dry out like the petroleum or whale oil.

-Dorson
Phil 16 Dec 2005
#10
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Can anyone in the States make a couple of Brand suggestions of synthetic non detergent oils, please? And would a gun shop and/or a hardware store be the best place to find it?

Phil
Monica 16 Dec 2005
#11
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Time to put away the WD!

Dentures in cuff key hole = "tooth pick".
BFW 16 Dec 2005
#12
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Probably the easiest to find would be a product by Birchwood Casey called (believe it or not) Synthetic Gun Oil. It's a Teflon based product. A 10 oz. can costs about $8.00. Just about any sporting goods store should have it back in the gun department. All their gun products (degreasers, grime removers) work fine on handcuffs, as well as locks, kitchen appliances, bicycles, anything that gets exposed to the elements.

An old technique that works great for keeping a very light protective coating of oil on metal, particularly blued steel, is to soak a piece of chamois in oil (saturated but not dripping) and use that to wipe down the object. Keep the chamois in a tightly sealed container and periodically give it a squirt of new oil. My experience has been that keeping blued steel well oiled seems to toughen up the finish over time.
The Amazing Michael 16 Dec 2005
#13
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
BFW, great info! I will have to try it sometime!

Monica, toothpick.....LOL! I love it!


Cheers, Mike
BFW 16 Dec 2005
#14
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Phil:

Probably more than you want to know, but what the heck.

Dorson is right about natural oils (petroleum, whale oil, lard, etc.) gumming up the works of any metal mechanism. As the oil dries up, it leaves behind a residue. Also, natural oils will absorb dirt and grime, thereby aggravating the residue problem. To combat this, oil manufacturers began adding detergents (which are synthetic) to help dissolve the natural oil residues. The detergents do not eliminate the problem, they just make maintenance a little easier.

The first widely marketed synthetic oil was Mobil 1, which came out in the mid 1970's. In addition to automobile engines, it is a perfectly fine lubricant for just about anything; my mother used it on her sewing machine and never again had the problem of that black junk leaking out and getting on the cloth (the black junk being the natural oil residues mixed with dust).

All synthetic oils are non-detergent; they don't absorb dirt and grime, but merely keep it "suspended;" thus, there's no reason to add detergent. That's why if you use pure, synthetic oil in your car, you almost never have to change the oil, but you do have to periodically change the filter.

With handcuffs, stuff is going to get into the works, unless they stay in a desk drawer. If all you do is oil them, even on a regular basis using synthetic oil, they will still get gummed up over time. So, just do the same thing you do with a firearm. Clean it/scrub it/soak it/blow it out with gun solvent to remove the grime. Then oil it. It's a two step process.

Since it's kinda hard to put a set of handcuffs together after you've taken them apart, you can't easily scrub out the insides. So, just squirt the mechanism full of gun solvent, let it sit for a while, then blow it out with an air hose, or more gun solvent if you get the kind in an aerosol can. You'll be amazed at the crud that builds up in there.

If you have to decontaminate handcuffs, or anything else, you use a chlorine bleach solution. You put a splash of plain laundry bleach in a gallon of water, immerse (or rinse) the object in the solution for 10 seconds, and it will kill every germ and virus known to medical science. It's exactly the same thing restaurants do with all their cooking and serving utensils.

But, by decontaminating your handcuffs with the chlorine solution, you've now got water in the mechanism, which will cause rust, unless they're stainless steel. So, then you get the water out using WD40, then oil them.

In the old days, before the synthetic stuff came out, we all used kerosene. You could buy a gallon of it for less than the cost of a little bottle of gun solvent. You tossed your revolver and handcuffs in a bucket, filled it with kerosene, soaked them for a few hours, occassionally brushing them and swishing them around in the kerosene, let them air dry or blew them out with an air hose, oiled them, and went on your way. It also stunk up the house and made your wife mad at you, but it was cheap and quite effective. Also, if you had a dirty gun and an inspection was called, you dabbed a little kerosene inside your holster and hoped the smell would cause the captain to think you'd recently cleaned your gun and pass you by.

If you use handcuffs for a living, just get in the habit of cleaning them with solvent, then oiling them, on a routine basis and every time after you have to wrestle with a guy down in the dirt or mud getting the things on him. Also, spend the few extra bucks to get stainless steel S&W M-103's; they're a lot easier to keep clean. I've got one set that I used for twenty years or so and never had a problem, mainly because I cleaned and oiled them every time I cleaned my sidearm. Yeah, the finish on them is not as sexy looking as the nickel, but I never had a prisoner gripe about that.

As for running handcuffs through a dishwasher, I've heard about this for years but never knew anyone to actually do it. Unless perhaps they were stainless steel, I don't think it would be a good idea. I suspect it would get them clean, but the drying cycle would probably rust up the insides. I had a girlfriend once who ran my cast iron skillet through the dishwasher. I nearly cried when I saw the poor thing (the skillet, not the girlfriend) all covered in a fine film of light brown rust due to the heated drying cycle.
Jason 16 Dec 2005
#15
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
"So, after using WD40 (which is a great product), you let the item dry out and then apply regular oil for long term lubrication. For non-stainless steel handcuffs, if all you use is WD40 they'll eventually start rusting on the inside."


Good point about internal rust, BFW.
I once purchased a beautiful pair of Hiatt Darbies with 100% of their plating on E-Bay, only to find that the bolt and casing were rusted throughout.


Monica: your “toothpick” comment had me reeling. He was fighting tooth and nail for his freedom.


Jason


BFW 16 Dec 2005
#16
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Sorry to hear about the Darby's.

Internal rust is a "silent killer" on any metal mechanisms. The outside looks great, but the inside is getting eaten away as if by metallic termites and all because there is no film of oil to keep humidity and other moisture from coming in contact with the metal.

But, at least to me, rust has gotten a really bad rap over the years. Think of it as "oxidation" that if you control will actually provide a very durable protective finish on the metal. After all, bluing steel is nothing but a rapid oxidation process using chemicals other than water to create a microscopic surface plating.

If you get a "rust" spot, my belief is that the worst thing you can do is to use a rust remover (naval jelly, penetrating oil, WD40) since these will remove ALL the iron oxide and leave the underlying steel pitted. Instead, if you soak the oxidized area with a very light oil (such as kerosene or naptha a/k/a lighter fluid) and let the oxide "soften up", you can buff off the area leaving a smooth, although discolored, area. Just don't get in a hurry; let the oil do all the work for you. Try to envision the rust as a sort of callous on the metallic skin.

For internal mechanisms, like your Darby's, just use patience, time and a light touch. Keep the item soaked in light oil, and gradually and easily begin to work the mechanism. Even if it's completely frozen, apply a light torque, then let it soak some more. As almost by magic, after days or even weeks of thinking you're getting nowhere, the mechanism will all of a sudden break loose and resume working.

Hey, it took 40 years for the mechanism to get in that sorry condition; don't think you can fix it in 4 minutes. I've seen more things ruined because the guy got in a hurry, wanted a 10 second solution, and believed "the bigger the hammer, the quicker the results." That's why keys get broken off in handcuffs. It's not the key's fault, but the stupid gorilla working it.

Monica, the "tooth pick" observation is wonderful. The best we ever came up with was "handcuffs with a bite."

Phil 17 Dec 2005
#17
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
BFW,

Thanks for all the information. I appreciate it when someone takes the time to share all their knowledge on a subject as you did here. When you mentioned Teflon, I remembered that the oil I often use is a Teflon oil called Tri-Flow. I've used it for years with great success. In fact, the bottle that I have is several years old - it only takes a little to do the job. I wondered if it is still available, so I went to Google and did a check. Yep, it's still out there in all different kinds of dispensers (www.triflowlubricants.com). Even Amazon sells it (for a company called Niagara Cycle Works) in all the different forms, and they have exactly the type of bottle I need. Since what I have is old, I think I'll order some from Amazon tonight. I remember looking for it a couple of years ago at the hardware store where I got my first bottle, and they didn't have it. It's good to see it's still available, and I would highly recommend it. I call it my banana oil because it smells like bananas.

Phil
Jason 17 Dec 2005
#18
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
BFW,

I have saved a copy of your post for future reference. As for the Darby cuffs, the seller agreed to take them back, so I wound up only being out postage to the U.K. Aside from that transaction, I’ve found E-Bay to be a great resource for international trading in general, and have acquired many a hard to find item through them. Prior to the commercialization of the internet, I had spent many a weekend riffling through flea markets and antique shows – where I often purchased antique locks/cuffs at bargain prices. Do you also collect the great cuffs/locks of the past?

Jason


hOWY 17 Dec 2005
#19
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
I like to use Break Free, it is similar to Tri-Flow as when the oil eventually evaporates it leaves those small teflon particles behind.

I prefer the 4 Oz squeeze bottle, not aerosol, and usually leave the small plastic applicator tube attached to the bottle all the time.

Just remember to shake it up before using.

Howy
Phil 17 Dec 2005
#20
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
HOWY,

Good point about the teflon particals. I think, though, from what I saw that you can get Tri-Flow without teflon. But I'll still check out the Break Free.

Phil
Dorson 17 Dec 2005
#21
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
A bit if a side topic, and somewhat applicable to our hobbies here. There is a company the last I heard in Arlington, VA that makes a special synthetic oil they sell to the military for small weapons and somewhere I think it is sold on the open market. I would have to research it to find it. I have heard from several people who are hunters that are particular about there weapons that they like synthetic oil and hit us watch and clock technicians up for a small bottle of it to do there barrels and such. In the clock trade we use Nye synthetic watch oil which in not cheap. I buy that oil through a company called Time Masters Inc. at www.time-masters.com.

For what it is worth, I have been using to some degree of success a product called PB Blaster that is suppose to penetrate and break down rust. I have found it in Wal-Mart and the Tractor Supply Company(www.mytscstore.com).

-Dorson
chris65 18 Dec 2005
#22
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
hi dorson, im not a hunter but i know a few, and as far as i know none of them use "weapons", they use firearms, just a small point but one that is relavant in todays "anti-gun" society, the bad guys n gals will always have firearms, why should'nt the good guys n gals?....check out what our wonderful federal leader has proposed here in canada...not good, just my thoughts, chris.
Howy 18 Dec 2005
#23
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
Dorson

That would be Militec-1 at http://www.militec1.com/, ask for the free smaples and they will send you one of their lubricant and grease.

Supposed to work better than Break Free in dusty enviornments as it does not attract and hold dust.

I have them however, have not tried them yet, better prices if you are Government or Military associated when you order.

The Radio Shack Precision Applicator 64-2301A works well for cuffs, and their tube of Lube Gel 64-2326 is a similar but thicker product, both have P.T.F.E.

Howy
Cincinnati
Mike 18 Dec 2005
#24
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
I don't remember where I heard these, but I suspect them to be true:

1) A woman arrived at a fire station wearing a pair of handcuffs to which she had lost the key. She asked the firemen to cut them off. Unfortunately a few hours previously the police had lost a handcuffed female prisoner. The firemen gave her a cup of tea while they waited for the police to arrive and confirm that she was not the missing prisoner. They than cut the handcuffs off..

2) A pair of handcuffs was an exhibit in a trial for robbery. The jury seet a note to the judge asking to examine the handcuffs. Ten minutes later they send another note asking for the key. 'What key?' said the police. 'We didn't recover a key' (either that or they lost it).

'Oh dear' said the judge. 'I really should have warned the jury not to play with them'. The usher became concerned that the handcuffs were too tight and were affecting the juror's circulation. The fire brigade were called.

In the UK the secrecy of the jury room can not be broken - it would be contempt of court - and only jurors may enter. After consulting both prosecution and defence counsel the judge decided that this time there would have to be an exception. Jurors were ordered to remain silent and to conceal their notes while a fireman, also ordered to remain silent entered with his bolt cutters.

The remains of the handcuffs were returned to the police, to be kept in case of any appeal.
Rothen 18 Dec 2005
#25
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
I can quite easily believe both of those.

People do have a habit of playing with handcuffs, I've noticed.
The Amazing Michael 20 Dec 2005
#26
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
I can believe these stories too. I work on, clean up, and play with handcuffs all the time. The first thing people try to do, if I have a pair of handcuffs laying around, is put them on. They never ask if there is a key either!!! Curiosity not only killed the cat, but it also cuffed it's little paws together too! LOL!


Cheers, Mike
BFW 20 Dec 2005
#27
I stumbled across this site and have found it fascinating.

I'm a retired cop, after 37 years, and many of the questions posed on your Forum about field handcuffs are things I remember.

I don't claim to be any kind of expert, but if anyone cares to know about practical experience with handcuffs from 1968 on (and stuff I gathered from those before me), let me know.
This past Halloween, my nephew called me up and wanted to borrow a pair of handcuffs. Seems he was going to a party costumed as a punk rocker and wanted to use them as a sort of belt buckle through the front belt loops of some denim pants that he had cut and ripped holes all over (in some rather strategic locations too, I must add).

Being a sort of "if if weren't for the last minute, I'd never get anything done" sort of guy, he swings by my place on his way to the party. Those pants were baggy as they could be, and his orginal idea of just using his belt loops wouldn't work. So, I went next door and borrowed a length of chain off my neighbor's swing set, got the kid to weave the chain in and out of various holes and then used the cuffs to lock them up. He was very happy with the result.

As he turned to dash out the door, I informed him that I had also, without being asked, made him a really cool dangly earring out of a standard handcuff key. He thanked me for my effort, but declined to wear it since he already had an awesome dagger of death earring that was more in keeping with his outfit than was my creation.

I told him okay, no hard feelings, and wished him fun. And made sure I had my cell phone turned on.

As I suspected, about two hours later, I get a call from my nephew wanting to know if I could bring him his hancuff key earring. Seems he needed to go to the john and realized that the key would indeed would be rather helpful.