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Australian Convict Leg Irons.

17 visible archived posts · 17 preserved total · topic ID 3252
Original topic ↗Recovered images
Justin M 08 Nov 2009
#1
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin









Franklin 08 Nov 2009
#2
Hi Justin:

Congratulations on your acquisition. You've got a wonderful piece of history. Yeah, they have been through a lot, but they do deserve a little bit of help on your part to prevent further deterioration. To me, that's part of the fun of collecting the really old stuff: preserving it for the future. Also, you don't want to just hide these things away in a drawer somewhere; you'll want to show them to your friends, maybe even hang them on the wall to really shock and weird out new visitors to your home. Trust me. Next to a ball and chain used as a doorstop, old fetters like yours hanging on a wall are a great conversation starter.

A crucial element you need to recognize is that your restraints are made of wrought iron, and that stuff is quite a bit different from modern iron, usually called "mild steel." Many of the preservative methods that work quite well on modern iron can actually be destructive to wrought iron.

Because wrought iron was smelted using charcoal and later coke as a fuel source, not all of the impurities (sometimes called "slag") in the iron ore were burned off. Specifically, wrought iron typically has a very high silicate content resulting from the sand and dirt found in iron ore. With the introduction of the blast furnace in the late 19th century, the higher heat generated by modern smelting methods burns off all that stuff.

Those silicates are actually quite beneficial. A cross section of wrought iron can have upwards of 200,000 microscopic silicate fibers to the square inch. Their first benefit is that they help strengthen the wrought iron, increasing its ductility and malleability in a fashion akin to fiberglass. Second, the silicates and other trace impurities in wrought iron, when exposed to the elements, will oxidize and form a protective coating on the exterior of the iron that prevents the iron itself from oxidizing (i.e. rusting). This slag oxidation of the impurities in the iron results in the classic patina color of wrought iron, a very dark brownish blue approaching black color. In fact, that resulting patina color is why the early iron workers were called "blacksmiths." When wrought iron is heated up and quenched in water, it will turn black before your very eyes.

When wrought iron with its protective coating of slag oxidation is left exposed to just air and moisture, the piece will rust (i.e. form iron oxide), but only in the little tiny areas, if any, not protected by slag oxidation. Perhaps the best example of this is the Iron Pillar in Delhi, India, which has been exposed to the elements for over 1,600 years, yet remains in almost pristine condition. In this instance, a 1% phosphorus content in the iron causes a catalytic reaction of iron, oxygen and hydrogen to form a compound called misawite to collect and bond on the exterior surface, which in time forms into what scientists call oxyhydroxides. And it's still accumulating there, but very slowly. Today, the naturally formed coating is a whole whopping one-twentieth of a millimeter thick but continues to protect this ancient relic from the harsh climatic conditions of the area. If this coating is scratched off, it soon begins to form again in the damaged area, thereby protecting the piece from appreciable rust accumulation. Seehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_pillar_of_Delhi

Anyway, back to your fetters. You're dancing a fine line. You do want to remove the rust (iron oxide) but not damage the patina (the slag oxidation). The reason for getting rid of the rust is that it is a very porous, spongy stuff that will attract and hold moisture and acids that will attack the iron and eat it away. The problem with using most modern rust control compounds is not that they do a good job of removing rust (iron oxide), they'll also remove ALL surface oxidations, not just the bad iron oxide, but also the protective patina oxides.

Now, and please don't laugh about what follows, since it sounds like something out of the Middle Ages, because it really works. I learned it from a museum curator when I was doing some clerkship stuff in college, and have used it on my own stuff and other people's wrought iron stuff for over thirty years and it works great. A little smelly, but quite effective.

1. Wash the object in denatured alcohol to remove any oils and acids and let the things air dry.
2. Stick them in a low heat oven (125 degrees F, 52 degrees C) for a couple of hours or so to remove any moisture from the item. Don't be surprised if you see a light film of new rust form in some areas on the irons; that's actually a good thing since it means you're eliminating the water contained within the iron that's causing them to rust.
3. While still warm from the oven, fully immerse the fetters in a container of kerosene for several days, a couple of weeks or perhaps even a month or more to loosen the rust until you can just rub it off with your fingers or a toothbrush. Every day or so, just reach down in the bucket and gently wash the things around with your fingers. As you're cleaning the items, the kerosene will probably turn the color of coffee, which means you're getting the rust off, but not the protective patina.
4. Whatever you do, don't use any type of metallic bristle brush, even a bronze one, since this can scratch off the patina. If you wouldn't use it on your own skin or teeth, don't use it on the irons. To get down into the areas around the rivets and hinges, use dental floss. If you need to get a little more aggressive, get a bamboo chopstick and using a hammer and a concrete sidewalk, smash the end of the bamboo up into a little fiber brush. Don't use Scotch-Brite or, heaven forbid, sandpaper or steel wool.
5. Once the rust is gone, you have to get rid of the kerosene. You can hang the things up and let them air dry for a few days, but as I learned, it's easier and faster and not the least bit harmful to just to set the kerosene on fire and burn it off. Takes about 15 seconds and then you just wipe off the little dab of soot left behind with an old clean towel. Until you get a protective coating of oil on them (next step) dont touch the iron with your bare hands as this will leave a minute, but unwanted deposit on the surface; wear clean cotton gloves.
6. Smear lard all over all exposed surfaces, then stick them in a low heat oven until the lard melts and wipe off the excess while still hot, then let them cool off. You can use vegetable shortening, like Crisco, but it doesn't seem to hold up as well. After the lard has liquefied, don't continue to bake them as that will cook the lard and leave behind a brown coating on the items. Again, stay away from petroleum based greases since they usually contain detergent additives that can damage the patina.

Go hang the things up on the wall and admire them.

For periodic maintenance, get a piece of chamois skin and saturate it in olive oil. It doesn't have to be dripping wet, just good and oily. Keep it in a sealed container, occasionally adding a few drops of oil to keep it replenished. Just wipe them down from time to time to keep a light coating of oil on them and to wipe off any little spots of new rust that may pop up from time to time. This also works quite well on firearms and modern handcuffs to remove fingerprints and gunk from the finish.

Yes, this process is somewhat time consuming, but it works very well, is highly non-invasive and actually encourages the natural protective patina of the object to restore itself. If you think I'm nuts for using lard and olive oil, just remember something. They didn't have petroleum based lubricants back then. The best stuff they had was whale oil, but that stuff is nearly impossible to find these days, costs and arm and a leg when you can find it, and stinks to high heaven.

If you're going to store the items away in a drawer or cabinet, there's another technique you can use to prevent rusting. Stick some pieces of zinc in the same drawer, or even better, line the entire bottom of the drawer or shelf with galvanized (i.e. zinc-plated) sheet iron. The trick here is that humidity will first oxidize with the zinc before it has a chance to oxidize with the iron. To keep this drawer lining from scratching the contents of the drawer, you can cover it with felt or other porous cloth.

Lastly, one thing I noticed in your pictures is that there are areas on the irons that seem to have a reddish discoloration. That and the overall corrosion pattern on the surfaces suggest that your leg irons were long exposed to a seawater environment, probably buried in the sand on a beach for a long time, in which case you've also got a salt contamination in the iron you need to get rid of. There's a way you can get rid of that without having to resort to electrolysis. If so, just email me.

Have fun.

Franklin
PaulJDavies 09 Nov 2009
#3
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Congratualions Justin.
I think the best thing to preserve them would be to sell the to me!!! Sooooo jealous. I'd take really good care of them!!!
But seriously they are fantastic and very hard to find in any condition. A pair of top and bottom irons is at the top of my list of must haves. I'd love to hear about how you found them, and dare i say, how much you paid. You have my email address. If they were mine they'd end up polished smooth from handling! I think you've got the picture of how excited I am.
I can't add anything to the previous message because he's an expert.
Paul
Justin M 09 Nov 2009
#4
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Hi Guys,

Franklin,

Thank you very much for taking the time to provide me with such excellent advise.

Having seen convict leg irons in various museums before, I had often wondered how they had achieved their rust free finish while retaining their dark patina.

The procedure you have described is certainly not something I was aware of, that's the beauty of this forum, the oportunity to learn from those who have far more knowledge on a subject than oneself.
I will follow your advise exactly, and may contact you to ask any questions that arise, including finding out more about ridding them of any salt contamination, and I will certainly post some photos when completed.
I agree that they don't deserve to be locked away in a drawer, so eventually they will find a home somewhere around my apartment where they can be admired.

Your expert advise is greatly appreciated, thanks again !


Paul,

I discovered these in a very small antique shop near Sydney, sitting in the bottom of an old washing tub with a clutter of other items. They just looked like a pile of rusty chains at first, it wasn't until I noticed that they actually had a price tag that I thought they may be of interest. I dragged them out, hands covered in rust, and could not get to the bank quick enough !
The shop owner said he purchased them from an auction at the Blue Mountains, this area had quite a bit of convict activity in the early 1800's, so I guess it is possible that they were once used there.

Regards,

Justin
Edgeplay_Cgo 09 Nov 2009
#5
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Thanks for the directions, Franklin.

They're a keeper.

Franklin 09 Nov 2009
#6
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Hi Justin:

You mentioned the appearance of leg irons you've seen in museums, that nifty semi-glossy black finish. That may not necessarily be a true patina.

If you're dealing with any old wrought iron object, not just fetters, there's another possible cleaning/conservation issue you may have to contend with.

One of the things homemakers (and museum curators) used to do on iron objects was use a compound called black lead, sometimes called stove polish, which was its primary use. Black lead is a misleading term since it does not contain lead, sort of like an egg cream fountain drink doesn't contain any eggs.

Black lead was nothing more than a mixture of graphite (plumbago, as they used to call it) and iron filings. You just rubbed the stuff on your iron stove, fireplace andirons and the like to work it down into the pits found on the surface of wrought iron and cast iron items, then buffed it with a cloth to create a shiny black finish that wouldn't burn off if the item was heated up, as with a stove.

Additionally, aging Victorian men with a streak of vanity used black lead as a hair dressing to hide gray hair. Mixed with hair oil, it not only thickened and blackened your hair along the lines of mascara, but also tinted the scalp to camouflage thinning hair.

Hey, history can be a lot of fun.

Anyway, if you've got an old iron item with black lead on it, the kerosene bath will get rid of it as well. However, it will result in a gooey, gunky mess that you'll have to toss out and start a fresh batch.

Franklin
atlanta*casting 10 Nov 2009
#7
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
I have seen a bottle of stove black before and didn't really know how it was used.

you are always a good contributor, keep posting.

Anonymous 13 Nov 2009
#8
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
I thought wrought iron was another name for cast iron.
clcl 14 Nov 2009
#9
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
The red colour of the rust looks like iron chloride obtained from sea
immersion or artificial salt water immersion. The colour of atmospheric rust
(mixture of iron oxides and carbonates) is different.
PaulJDavies 14 Nov 2009
#10
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Franklin,
did I read here once that wrought iron sparks differently to steel when put to a grinder? Is there a test to see if something is old(wrought iron) or new(steel). I've noticed pitting in wrought iron cuffs which were not overly rusty and assumed that impurities in the iron had disintegrated. Is this the case?
Paul
Franklin 14 Nov 2009
#11
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Hi Paul:

Yes, there is a sparking test for wrought iron, but the sparks produced by a grinder are mainly indicating the carbon content of the metal. Pure iron is brittle, but with around a 0.5% carbon content, it becomes quite malleable. As the carbon content increases (and thus the number of sparks produced by the grinding wheel) the iron becomes harder but less malleable; by the time the carbon reached around 1%, they called it steel (even though it was originally produced by the wroughting process). With iron, too much of a good thing (carbon) becomes a bad thing and if the carbon content was around 2% or greater the iron goes back to being brittle. In the old days, they had no specific name for that, although it later was called pig iron.

The distinguishing thing about wrought iron is that it has both a grain and a texture, both resulting from the way it was smelted. Going back to Roman times, the hottest fires they had were ones made of charcoal, but these were not hot enough to bring the iron to a molten state. After most of the excess impurities in iron ore were smelted out, the resulting lump (called a bloom) was full of irregularly sized and shaped air pockets, much like the inside of a loaf of homemade bread.

That's were the wroughting came into play. With the bloom as hot as they could get it, they started hammering away (i.e. wroughting) on it to eliminate the air pockets to create what they called a billet. As the billet flattened out, they'd fold it in half and hammer some more, fold again, hammer some more, and so on. What was happening at the microscopic level was not that the iron was melting and fusing together, but the iron fibers (being in a hot plastic state) were intertwining with one another as well as the silicate fibers which further acted as sort of a glue to hold stuff together. By analogy, wroughting produces a form of metallic plywood. However, those original air pockets in the bloom were never completely eliminated; they were just flattened out, leaving a surface texture on the iron. Thus, the little shallow pits you see one the surface of wrought iron are not the result of surface rusting, but the wroughting process itself. Because those flattened out air pockets are dispersed throughout wrought iron making it porous, when subjected to friction, wrought iron will wear down faster than modern iron which has no such voids.

Additionally, during the wroughting process, excess carbon would burn and flake off of the surface, which was one of the ways they got the carbon content down to the desired level.

If you want to get an idea of what that the surface texture of charcoal wrought iron looks like, just get a big, thick hunk of homemade bread, and flatten it out with a rolling pin.

Since each fold of the iron doubles the previous number of layers of iron, a billet folded and wrought 5 times will have 32 layers, 10 folds results in 1,024 layers while a billet with 20 folds has over a million layers. The more layers, the higher the quality of the finished iron.

After the billet was in a rectangular shape, they did not fold it in half the same way between wroughts, but would rotate the billet 90% to break up the folded layers into longitudinal sections. This resulted in the wrought iron having a grain, much like bamboo, which gives a springy quality to wrought iron that modern steel does not have. Unlike the modern stuff, wrought iron can be worked cold (i.e. not heated up first in a forge); it can be repeatedly bent around without breaking as will modern steel.

By using crucibles and bellows (and a lot of time), it is possible to actually melt iron with charcoal as a heat source, but only in small quantities. As such, except for very small items, you cannot cast charcoal wrought iron; that is, pour it in a mold since you never get it hot enough to melt.

In 1790, the puddling process for refining iron was perfected in England. Using coke for fuel as an indirect heat source in a draft furnace, they were able to bring the iron to a thick, molten state. In the furnace, they stirred the molten iron around, causing it to puddle into a ball of refined iron. Puddled iron, like charcoal iron, still has air pockets in it due to burned off impurities as well as ones introduced by the stirring, but they are generally smaller and more regular in size. Nonetheless, the stuff still had to be wroughted to eliminate those air pockets. By this time, they were using mechanical means to do the wroughting, either a trip hammer (called drop forging) or rollers (called roll milling).

To get an idea of the surface texture of puddled iron, just flatten out another piece of bread on your kitchen counter, but use factory made bread (instead of homemade bread) which has a finer and more regular inside texture.

Of course, you can smooth off the surface texture of either charcoal iron or puddled iron with a file as did early locksmiths. However, this also removes the dark patina on the surface of the iron (the oxidation of the silicates) created in the forging process. That's why locksmiths were called whitesmiths in the old days; then they were done, the surface color of the iron was "white" rather than the "black" color left by the blacksmith.

Production of modern iron using the Bessemer process started in the United States in 1866. With it, the iron is entirely liquefied and poured into molds to form ingots or whatever. As such, all iron today starts out life by being cast. Also, it has no grain and the only surface texture it will have will be that left behind by the mold the thing is cast into.

Late 19th century modern iron salesmen did a really good job of screwing up the terminology. Iron with a 1% carbon content they still called steel, but they called the low carbon stuff wrought iron, even though it was never wroughted, while the crummier high carbon stuff they called cast iron.

You'll sometime see so-called "wrought iron" benches and chairs at home and garden centers, which is a lie since they're actually high carbon cast iron. If you want to add a little ambiance to your garden with one of these, don't drop it on the concrete parking lot while toting it to your car. The thing will probably break. While the term wrought iron originally designated a refining process, it now is sometimes used to denote a product (cast iron), which is why it's gotten a rather sorry reputation in modern times. While I've never done it, I would happily bet that if you can find a true wrought iron bench made back in the 18th century, you could drop it off the top of a multi-story building and not only would it not break, it would probably bounce.

Blacksmiths hated the modern Bessemer stuff. Not having a grain or any appreciable silicate content, they could not work the stuff as they could wrought iron, so they continued to demand the original article made the traditional way. And there were a lot of problems with that early Bessemer steel; it tended to crack when subjected to stress. While it was a lot cheaper than wrought iron, it was inferior for many applications, particularly tools of any sort that were subjected to stress.

In fact, when Gustave Eiffel constructed his famous tower in Paris, he demanded that only wrought iron being used, even though it was vastly more expensive than the modern stuff; he didn't want the thing cracking and breaking up in the wind. Before Bessemer got all the kinks worked out in his refining process, there were several catastrophic bridge failures in the U.S. due to the new stuff cracking and breaking.

So, for you British handcuff collectors out there, that's the reason you see some handcuffs (as well as iron tools) that are marked "genuine wrought" or "warranted wrought". These were made after Bessemer began producing modern steel, misleadingly calling the low carbon steel "wrought iron"(today, it's usually called mild steel). Ever wonder why manufacturers were giving a warranty of sorts on the type of iron they were using unless there was a fake variety floating around out there? Well, that's why. Accordingly, if you're got some cuffs with such a marking, you can bet they were made after 1880 or so when the modern blast furnace began appearing in England and Europe.

I apologize for the length of this post, but I've never figured out a short way to accurately describe this stuff. Hope it makes sense.

Franklin
atlanta*casting 14 Nov 2009
#12
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
So are the lock cases of the early US made handcuffs / leg irons like

the Delastasius, Rankin, Adams, Wisner & Hoyt, Tower bottom key made

of cast iron, wrought iron, or steel?
Edgeplay_Cgo 14 Nov 2009
#13
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
If you Google "spark Test" you'll find some decent sites. The Wikipedia site seems about as good as any. Spark testing does not just test the carbon level in the steel. Other elements change the shape of the sparks as well. It can be a bit tricky until you've seen the various alloys you are comparing. In general wrought iron has long straight sparks (but so do other materials) while cast iron has short, bushy sparks.

As Franklin pointed out, wrought iron and cast iron are handled differently. Wrought iron is hammered to shape by a blacksmith. It is a strong, ductile, malleable material which can be twisted and bent while cold. Cast iron is melted and poured into molds by a founder, not a smith. It contains large, irregular carbon granules and is consequently brittle when cooled. You can't bend it much, and it is likely to shatter under the hammer. By the mid 1800s, the technology of iron casting was quite advanced.

I disagree with Franklin about the meaning of "Warranted Wrought." It is indicating the method of manufacture. The steel was hammered into shape, not cast. In today's terminology, we might say "Forged," rather than wrought. "Hard" indicates that it is true steel, and has been heat treated to harden and toughen it, much like carbon steel knife blades( and lots of other stuff) are heat treated. Wrought iron doesn't really heat treat. There were blacksmith techniques of turning iron into steel, but they were time consuming and therefore expensive. They were pretty much reserved for making knives and scissors. Even axes were made of iron with a steel edge welded in. It wasn't until the Bessemer process was perfected, that heat treatable (hardenable) steel was common.

Cast iron handcuffs would not be of much value. They might break if you threw them onto a hard floor.

Paul 14 Nov 2009
#14
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Fascinating. Thank you all. I'm going to print this out and keep it!
Paul
Dorson 15 Nov 2009
#15
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
As my metallurgy instructor in college who had a Phd. in metallurgy said, it wasn't about getting all the carbon and impurities out of the iron, but controlling what is in the iron.
CLCL 17 Nov 2009
#16
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








Click to expand...
Two hundred years ago,the hammersmith's cleverness vas astonishing: See the
geometrical perfection of links. The cost of manpower was so cheap?
CLCL
Franklin 17 Nov 2009
#17
Here's a few pictures of a set of convict leg irons I have just purchased.

The round irons are a bit heavier than usual, but I don't think they would be classified as punishment irons, they weigh just over 6.5 pounds. The oval set only weigh 6 pounds.

As you can see in the photos, they are a bit rusty, and all of the cuffs are seized in their positions.

I'm looking for advise as to what, if anything, should be done to preserve these irons ?

Perhaps just keeping them in a warm, dry apartment is enough ? since they have managed to survive 200 years of unfavourable conditions already.

Thanks in advance,

Justin








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Hi CLCL:

Congratulations (or, perhaps, condolences). It appears you've recognized what I deem to be a rare, specialized contagion in the arena of collecting antique manacles and fetters. Once bitten by it, you may never recover. In all fairness, I feel obliged to warn you about it.

While I certainly have a lot of fun dabbling around with factory made vintage restraints and modern ones, the restraints, usually fetters, that captivate me the most (yes, the pun is intended) are the older ones created before Messrs. Tower, Bean, Froggatt or Hiatt were born; the restraints that were individually crafted by unknown iron artisans before manufacturing such articles became an independent specialty trade. We will never know the names of those craftsmen, their techniques have been virtually forgotten, and the material they used, wrought iron, is no longer commercially made.

Other than a bilboe, the riveted top and bottom irons used on British convicts transported to Australia are about as simple in design as restraints come. Yet, as you observed, they still exhibit artistry and inventiveness in their design and construction. In earlier times, those old blacksmiths turned out even more fantastic creations, such as these:



While certainly not as finely crafted as a decorative gate for a parish church or latticework for a king's palace, old fetters such as these clearly exhibit artistry. And what makes that artistry even more remarkable is that it was not intended to be art. That skill and craftsmanship was expended on something used to lock up a criminal; literally, an individual deemed no longer fit to be accepted in regular society.

Yes, first time visitors to my home are nearly always aghast when they see the stuff hanging on my office wall and lurking about in corners around the desk and filing cabinet. I can tell they think I must be some sort of medieval, sadomasochistic, lunatic pervert who recently escaped from maximum security solitary confinement in an asylum for the terminally deranged. Happens every time.

But, I just tell them, "Hey, how do you like the decorating scheme? I call it Early Dungeon. But none of it was really used that way. Here (grabbing a set of leg irons off the wall and handing it to the visitor), take a look at these. They're really cool."

At first, the visitor usually holds the leg irons as if they were a gangrenous rotted leg that just fell off of a leper. But while showing them how the lock mechanism works, or explaining how the chain links were made or the forge welds executed, their initial revulsion quickly evaporates, and they invariably begin to ask questions about the other items on the wall or on the floor. I can then tell that another person has just been bitten, to some extent or another, just as I was several decades ago.

Okay, consumer warning time. Having been apparently so bitten, if you allow the infection to spread, you will be doomed to spending a lot of your spare time in researching and learning more about not just those old fetters, but the times and conditions that caused them to be produced in the first place. You will spend countless, happy hours attempting to unravel the mystery behind them. You'll discover that a lot of the stuff you thought or supposed to be true about former times and practices is downright false; that truth is more surprising than fiction. And, from time to time, you may even cry a little bit, mourning the almost complete disappearance of the skill and pride of workmanship those nameless artisans left behind in such mundane artifacts designed and crafted for no other purpose than to keep a bunch of lawbreakers from running away.

On the bright side, you'll make acquaintances and form friendships with some nifty folks from all over the world who have been bitten by the handcuff bug, although their individual symptoms vary vastly from each afflicted collector to the next. Some suffer from Smith & Wesson syndrome. Others with the Peerless plague. You will witness Hiatt hypertension, Tower typhus, darby delirium and Mattatuck madness to name but a few.

But worst of all is antique fetter fecundity. I know. I have it.

So be very, very careful.

Franklin