The Forum at Handcuffs.Org

Peerless 700 Flaw

19 visible archived posts · 19 preserved total · topic ID 399

Wolflock 21 Jan 2005

There is a flaw in the Peerless 700 which was found out by Pastor Clyde on the Cafe which has released the info in Magic for Magicians web site. If you want to find out register for the newsletter at: http://www.freewebs.com/magicformagicians/

Regards
Wolflock

Rck Silmser 21 Jan 2005

Wolfie...I can't see how to join, it looks interesting though !

~Rick~

Joseph Fox 21 Jan 2005

Why make us all 'jump through hoops' to register? Let's cut to the chase--What's the flaw?

Tim1 23 Jan 2005

Hey Joseph,
Don't get too excited about this "mysterious flaw" discovered by this Clyde character. We tested 17, yes , seventeen, pairs of the model 700 tonight in the squadroom and guess how many showed it? Zero, none , nada, zip. The only flaw we could find in reference to Clyde's "discovery is called "gravity". The double lock pin does come down after "rapping" it, but the double lock is still as tight and secure as when applied. The pin has no tension behind it and thus it doesn't affect the double lock at all. We "rapped" the cuffs a lot harder than twice, on metal desks, concrete floors, using blackjacks, and with batons. Not one would release the double lock. Some of these cuffs had been in service over a year and were well broken in also. Would I venture a guess, I would say the cuffs this worked on were either reassembled incorrectly, or he just got a faulty pair. Either way, Peerless probably does not appreciate being told of a "flaw" thats doesn't exist, best I can tell. Others are urged to smack their Model 700's on the floor while double locked and see if they can make the DL release.
Oh, and to the gentleman that claimed he dropped his new ASP cuffs on the floor and they cracked, also the claim of using a chair to pry the double strand apart, First, why are you dropping your cuffs? They give you a gun too? Second, I have yet to see where they would have cracked, the plastic is only a coating on the majority of the cuff. As for prying the double strands, we had a 270 lb. Corporal attempt the same thing and all he broke was a good sweat. Please use caution making a blanket statement about the useablity of an item such as the new ASP cuffs, so far, when used and applied properly, they have been flawless here. Besides the leather cuff case shortage. My nickle and some change,
Tim
Oh, Ian and Shawn, I got em ! I got em! I mean I actually picked the DL and shimmed a pair of S&W 90's! Thanks for the advice to the novice on that part of the cuffing world, Oh, and Ian, since I managed to carve my fingers on a shim, does that mean I have accomplished something you haven't got done in all your years? I think it had something to do with the attempt to use brute force with a shim and my size 16 ring finger hands.

Steve Santini 23 Jan 2005

Hi Tim,

Many years ago I developed what I refer to as a "finger shim". This is a shim but with one end made into a loop like a finger ring.

You slip this loop over the 1st knuckle joint of the second finger.

Held like this, you use the first, or pointer finger, to gently push in the bow arm while the other finger exerts slight pressure cuasing the shim to ride up and over the ratchet teeth.

It works really well and once you get the hang of it, you can shim most cuffs open in mere seconds. A lot faster than with an ordinary shim.

This device also prevents cut fingers from the shim edge.

To make it, I used a spring steel street sweeper blade I found by a curb and filed the shim part of it down so it was very thin.

This left the "ring" part thicker so it would not bend and would rigidly fit over the knuckle like a ring.

Try it. You'll love it!

Steve Santini

Anonymous 23 Jan 2005

Tim,
Dip the "handle" of the shim in some plati-dip. Paul

Shawn 24 Jan 2005

That is some good advice Paul, I use shrink tubing, available in any hardware store in the electrical section. It is use in splicing wire. A small piece at the end of a shim add a little indirect Bic lighter heat and it will shrink to the shim, a few seconds to cool and your set.

I'll have to give your idea a shot Paul, hope all is well with you.

Your welcome Tim, hope Ian and I have been of help.

Shawn

Dorson 24 Jan 2005

Hello all,
Back in my teens, yeah a long time ago, I made my own shims out of spring steel from a busted baby ben alarm clock main spring. I had to grind portion down to the right width and round the edges so nothing is sharp on it. leaving an area that is wider than the teeth gives for a better grip of the shim. I also found that bending the tip just a hair help get between the teeth. With this one shim I have opened everthing from standard swing throughs,(Peerless, S&W, etc.) to Towers, S&W 94's, Mattatuck's. Alot depends on the skill and understanding of the locks and some of the tricks I learned is just pushing in on the bow a little to help expose the gap to shim the lock open.

-Dorson

Howy 24 Jan 2005

Remember when Picking or Shimming the trick is to use your skills of use finesse not force.

Howy

Dorson 24 Jan 2005

#10

Howy,
Surely you jest!!! Patience, skill, knowledge, finesse seem to be lost arts these days... Instant gratification is plagueing alot of areas... How many people take the time to actually look at something in detail. They should learn from shows like Crime Scene Investigations, develope the eye for detail and take in the whole thing. And as the escape artists out there know, study, practice, and more practice so it becomes second nature.

Now all, I took a look at a pair of Peerless 700's that I have taken apart and the pictures are on this forum. Given the spring tension, the notch in the double lock bar, and the mass of the double lock bar, I have come to the following conclusion. It might be possible to strike the cuffs and disengage the double locks, but this is going to take the rigth angle, considerable velocity, and a lot of luck. Take into consideration the manufacturing imperfections that create friction, dirt, gummed up oil or lack of oil. and the amount of force required...

In the future if people post such things, take the scientific approach and detail how it was done, and what conditions.

-Dorson

Wolflock 26 Jan 2005

#11

First. Rick. Email me and I will tell you how to register.

Second. On a few sites I have read the different reactions to the flaw. Clyde was the one who found it out. Somehow it seem to be different on the different sets of Peerless 700's. Some work some dont. I thin that some just have the flaw and some dont due to lack of QC befor they go out. Nevertheless, it is a flaw and can be used in Escapology. Those who get it right, congrats and enjoy.

Regards
Wolflock

Pastor Clyde 26 Jan 2005

#12

Greetings all!

I'm "that Clyde character." It was interesting reading the notes here and being concerned that maybe the cuffs I was working on were just a fluke pair, I grabbed three more off the shelf. You guessed it, two hits and they are open. I suspect what is going on is technique. Anyone here used to "rapping cuffs" will not have a problem. Find something hard rap them as if you were ringing a bell with them- strike and remove. No kidding- its all in the wrist. Smash them up and down on a concrete floor and you'll just ruin a good pair of cuffs. All I can say is, those who can rap cuffs will be pleasantly surprised. Don't take my word for it. Try it! Then post your findings.

Respectfully,

that Clyde character

Tim1 27 Jan 2005

#13

Hi Clyde, We are on pair number 32 of the Peerless 700's and have yet to get one pair or even cuff to drop the double lock. I will give the wrist action a try, but surely one pair would have accidently dropped the DL by now, I am now taking it as a challenge to get at least one pair to do this flaw.
Howy, trust me, I am learning there is a lot more technique and patience than I thought, but I am getting there. I always carry at least 5 keys on my uniform somewhere hidden but it is still fasinating to me to learn how these things work and how easily they can be defeated bu someone that knows what they are doing. That would NOT be me right now, but I am trying and the plasti-dip and shrink wrap have both helped a lot.
Oh Clyde, I read you do metal plating...I have a pair of Colt handcuffs that need the nickle restored on one side badly, is that possible?
The Tim character

Pastor Clyde 27 Jan 2005

#14

Tim,

Keep trying with the rapping. I'll hopefully have a brief video up this week showing three brand new pairs being rapped open.

Meanwhile, yes, I do plating. I can reactivate the nickel on the cuffs and put another coat on them. However, this has best results when the nickel is worn off. If it is flaked off it is a bit tougher to get a smooth line around the flaked off areas. Also, the indentation of the colt, any numbers stamped in them, etc. will be a little less definate due to the build up of nickel on those areas.

Tell you what, I have a pair of colts here that need to be done. Let me get to them so that I can show you a before and after picture. If you are satisfied with what you see then I'll do them for you. How's that?

Clyde

Ian McColl 27 Jan 2005

#15

Hi Tim, Any good auto bumper plater will be able to renickle your cuffs. All the original nickel will need to be chemically cleaned off and then renickled. Best to have the lock mechanism taken out first. I would suggest just renickle over the half worn off nickel, it will look terrible.

Nickle is put on metal before it is to be chrome plated, so insist to which ever plater you use that you only want nickel. The layer is far thinner than chrome and will keep all markings the same.

Ian

kingstardog 27 Jan 2005

#16

The first one is a bit expensive but after that the parts are cheap.

This works very well if the instructions are followed to the letter. You can by a Phosporic acid cleaner used in gun bluing sets, and 1000 grit paper will smooth the chipped areas. I imagine many of the cuffs that look too mint and have no scratches have seen one of these sets.

Dipping small parts works great.

Do Not breathe the fumes. Use a good mask designed to filter the specific chemicals being used.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/plugnplate.htm

Pastor Clyde 27 Jan 2005

#17

Of course Ian is right in saying that it would be better to strip the cuffs and redo them overall. I was responding to your request of only doing one side. It is possible to plate just one side. Much of the nickel on that side can be removed electronically by reversing the plating process but in my experience there is residue that remains that has to be reactivated and plated over and on those areas the plating will be thicker than the others, etc. and can leave a slight line. These places are characteristically include small grooves, etc. such as the impression of the colt so it can become somewhat less defined. Maybe I'm just not patient enough. But as far as I know you can't chemically remove the plating on one side- you'd have to do the whole thing.

Anyways, the best advice by far is to have the entire set stripped and start from scratch. If you are going to have a bumper place strip them have them plate them too. Kingstardog pointed out a smaller set that you can use to plate them if you can find someone to strip them and you still want to plate them yourself. I also get my stuff from that company but have a tanks for bars of steel, straps, etc.

Good luck!

PC

Tim 28 Jan 2005

#18

Hi Guys,
Ian and Clyde, I don't know a thing about plating, all I know is one side of the cuffs is flaked down to the bare, copper colored base metal. I think that is the base anyways. The cuffs are pefect except for the spot, which is bigger than a quarter on one side. I treat Colt cuffs like I do my Colt pistols, which I own 15 of. I sure wouldn't have a bumper plater in this area do my nickle Python so I don't have the confidence in letting them do my cuffs. I am not sure there are even any bumper people left around here anymore. The gun shops here do not even offer nickle plating anymore due to some enviromental reason. At least that is what they told me.
I will take a pic and post it after shift tonight showing the spot. Clyde, I will take you up on the offer to do your cuffs first then let me know. I am starting to understand why nobody nickle plates anymore. My Python will go back to the Colt factory after I retire to be re-plated, I have a spot worn on the trigger guard from my clamshell holster. They are quite proud of their work and won't do handcuffs, they didn't say why.
Thanks for the advice, good people here. Even if we don't always agree.
Tim

Ian McColl 28 Jan 2005

#19

Hi Tim, As a manufacture, I use only competent eletro platers who will do what I need. In Australia they are everywhere doing all forms of plating. I wouldn't get a firearm plated as that is not my area of knowledge but I do handcuffs.

I also wouldn't cold plated something as I expect you would do to your Python, there is a right way and another way.

I look forward to hearing what you do and if you are happy with the results.

Ian
http://www.sympac.com.au/~imccoll/