Can anyone here tell me the best way to remove paint from a restraint?
I recently acquired a very old and rare restraint that someone has at one time cimpletely covered in gold paint. (Why I have no idea).
I can see that under the paint the iron is a nice old brown patina.
I want to remove the paint to expose the original brown rust/patina of the restraint.
Wire brushing is out so is anything else that will destroy the finish of the iron beneath the paint.
Thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks, Steve Santini
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Hey Steve. Please make more Deals from the Dark Side. Love that show.
> SDS
Besides Sodium dodecyl sulfate aka SDS aka NaDS aka sodium laurilsulfate aka sodium lauryl sulfate is the only thing I could find on this mysterious solvent. This is the stuff they add to shampoo to make it sudsy. Gentle, yes. But unless that gold paint is watercolor, Adam's solvent is not this. Adam: any chance you could post the ingredients list and especially the physician's notes (i.e. Contain petroleum distillates) that are on the packaging?
Any solvents used in any business within scope of OSHA (most N. American) will have an Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS profile) on record somewhere that will list all the ingredients. Even though the secret ingredients might not be listed on the label, there is no getting around the MSDS and poison control warnings when selling a product in the US.
In any case, I would test on an inconspicuous surface first to see the effect. Patinas are fragile.
> Goof Off
That stuff is powerful, I would be careful with that. Reminds me of when I soaked my plastic slot car in a jar of pure toluene that my dad kept way far away from the house in a 5 gallon steel can. I reached in and pulled it out immediately when it started to melt, but it was too late. Was OK though, that became my "car that had the roll-over accident" in my collection.
My own speculation: I am surprised that the kind of person who would paint antique cuffs gold would know enough about coatings to properly apply a primer + enamel, over an un-prepped surface, strong enough to resist plain friction. The spots that are showing their patina, are they in spots that were subjected to normal handling? Maybe the paint does not have a good grip on, as you describe, a proper patina, so perhaps a little buffing with a cloth wheel might cause the paint job to completely fail. Anything is possible I guess.
Speaking of solvents, I ran into this stuff "2-butoxyethanol". Might not be of much help with a cured oil-based paint, but for anything tar/oil/nicotine/dirt/grime-relate one a sensitive surface, there is no equal. I used it on LCD screen, laptop cases, glass, chrome, carpet stains, errant mayonaise on my dress shirt, etc. For as strong as it is, I am amazed at how gentle it is (i.e. LCD screen). Removes every fingerprint and leaves no streaks. Kind of like isopropyl, but much more effective and faster drying. Its a big hard to find though. Using MSDS profiles I have tracked it down to being an ingredient in everything from One-Shot Carpet Stain Remover to Mean Green Bicycle Cleaner. I have an old stock of Anti-Static Foaming Cleaner marketed for computers, and I hold this stuff near and dear.
Good luck and let us know. This is a good topic.