I want to clean my cuffs (modern styles and brands), I want to get any dust and gunk out of them, clean out any old lubrications, ensure they don't have water in them and lubricate them to protect them. What ever uses the least amount of items would be nice. I know WD40 cleans, penetrates, lubricates but it attracts dust and debris like a soup kitchen attracts homeless people in need of food.
So I would like to take care of my cuffs so that they will remain working. Currently all I have is WD40, 3-in-1 oil (which I am using currently), compressed air can, fine powdered graphite (which I only used one one pair of cuffs as a test since they were dry with no lubrication from factory).
So any product recommendations available on
www.eBay.co.uk or
www.Amazon.co.uk would be appreciated. So far I found ebay item ID: 201389601637 but I just have no experience with knowing what products/features would be the best to use.
Thankya kindly, in advance.
Here are the products I use, and the reasons I use them...
The SUPER RUSTED SHUT items get soaked in a container of a homemade mixture of 50% Acetone and 50% of the cheapest store brand automatic transmission fluid you can find. The more expensive ATFs have more detergents and friction modifiers which do not contribute to penetration). (an old timer taught me this trick and I don't know how I've done before without it). The mixture is flammable and should ONLY be used outside with proper ventilation. The Acetone will evaporate from the soloution and can be replenished as needed.
The SUPER RUSTED SHUT items that can safely be heated are held to a torch (Mapp or propane work the same) to several hundred degrees but not hotter, remove the flame, then spray the hot metal with WD40 and the oils will be wicked into moving joints by capillary action. The same physics are what cause solder to be pulled into a joint when sweating copper pipe. WD40 while also flammable, is pretty resistant to actually catching fire. WD40 is fair as a penetrant but sucks as a lubricant.
HEAVY cleaning and de-gunking is achieved with Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. Everything you normally use brake parts cleaner for but MAFS cleaner is safe for almost all plastics and will not be eaten by it. This dries VERY fast. Very flammable, use with caution!
General cleaning is with a product called "Houdini", excellent ability for flushing light particles of dirt or metals. It is actually sold as a light lubricant and once flushed, the item only needs wiping off of excess with a rag or paper towel. This is what I use for locks or cuffs that I handle frequently as there is no oily or greasy residue left behind. It has a pleasant orange scent, does not dry my skin and is also safe for almost all plastics. I use this especially for cuffs with plastic overmoulds like ASP or the Hiatt ultimate or speedcuffs. Will not shine or polish plastic surfaces when wiped off. Kinda hard to find, but if nothing else it is just plain COOL to lubricate your cuffs with something called "HOUDINI".
I use Triflow spray for almost everything that needs lubrication, it has EXCELLENT lubricity properties, does not dry sticky unlike wd40 which is actually not a lubricant (W=water D=displacement 40=40th formula). It will easily shine plastics and paint but will not harm either, this is not always a desirable trait, however as a lubricant as it's designed, it really holds up even after years of disuse. Teflon base in light carrier oil. VERY heat resistant but somewhat flammable until dry. I have not run into any issues with use on any brand of colored cuffs. Available at good bike, lock or gun stores. ABSOLUTE WONDERFUL STUFF!
Locksaver spray made by a company called MIL-CoMM. It is an OK lubricant that dries to a dry, and I mean DRY film. It's best use is on locks made of white metal (pot metal) and aluminum cuffs and locks as it fills in the microscopic pores in the metal thereby resisting wear in plugs, cylinders and locking dogs. Kinda hard to find, but it has it's place as described above. I have heard it has salt-spray resistive properties, but I have not personaly tested this. Leaves slight white residue on cardboard boxes cuffs come in.
The ONLY cuffs I use powdered graphite on are Korean made with silicone linings. The graphite is inert and can in no way harm the silicone. (playing it safe rather than sorry with these). Graphite gets a bad name due to ignorance. It MUST be stored in a DRY environment as it absorbs moisture from the air even through it's plastic tube. The secret to using it is "if you see it, you've already used too much of it". Most people squeeze the tube like they're pumping up a blood presure cuff. If it's dry enough just shake the tube with the cap on, some will become airborne and you simply need to point the tube skywards, open the cap and hold the tip to whatever you are lubricating. The "graphited air" will disperse upon to your item. That's all you need. Any more than that will clump together and behave more like molasses than it will lubricant. Not very good if you live in a humid or salty air locale.
ANY good brand name gun oil would protect cuffs or locks especially if you plan to leave them in storage for long periods of time. They generally get sticky over time but does quite well at resisting rust and corrosion.
Blacked cuffs are actually a form of Iron Oxide which is a type of rust as it is. Over-polishing or cleaning can alter the finish, some of the best info on the subject can be found on gun websites and forums. I own several pairs of blacked cuffs and noticed slight color changing from especially skin oils.
I was never fond of silicone sprays for locks or cuffs as it always has a slimy feel even after being wiped down, also attracting dirt and dust is not desirable to me.
Hope this helps someone,
--Vince
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